Here’s the third episode as promised. The class marks out and cuts out the moulds, knees and transoms to build two small clinker dinghies.
Here’s the third episode as promised. The class marks out and cuts out the moulds, knees and transoms to build two small clinker dinghies.
We filmed a Summer School class in 2000, and it’s taken me until now to edit it. It’s the first in a series which will eventually be accompanied by a thorough book on Traditional Clinker Construction. The first two episodes are here, the following episodes will appear….well, episodically, probably a few months apart. I’ve explained some complicated processes as best I
can, but you’ll still need a textbook. If you want to start your project before the series finishes and the book comes out, you can get a fair bit on lofting from both THE OPEN BOAT and WOODEN BOATBUILDING- THE SYDNEY WOODEN BOAT SCHOOL MANUALS, and the latter also includes the original manual on Building a Traditional Clinker Dinghy.
Stealer planks are let into a host plank where the host plank can’t be wide enough to cover the area it needs to.
Stopwaters prevent water migrating along joints in the backbone timbers in carvel-planked construction.
A severe bend and twist means that I have to steam the Huon Pine planks in my carvel-planked 24′ new build.
Bending the ribs into my 24′ Ranger class gaff sloop. Some are a single piece of timber, some are two laminations, some are of three laminations.
How to make a half-hull model. The example in this video is an Aussie 10-footer from 1906, and was made as a trophy for the historical 10-footer fleet.